Sitting in a cafe along the Everest Base Camp route, we were side-by-side with trekkers from around the world discussing their summit plans with their Sherpa guides. The excitement in the air is tangible as you near the world’s tallest mountain. Climbers from every corner of the globe take the harrowing, thrilling flight into the Lukla airport, looking to test their limits in the Himalayas - for good reason. The draw of the Everest region is irresistible to all inhabitants of planet Earth. The world’s highest peaks combined with the rich culture and companionship of the welcoming, skilled Sherpa guides make this a region unlike any other. The Everest Base Camp trek is the pinnacle of our travel experiences thus far and it will be hard to beat. While we didn’t summit Everest this time around, we are confident we will be back to take on the many peaks we left untouched.
Nepal is a nation that exceeded our expectations and is worth the trouble to experience. It isn’t the most convenient destination - it’s a far flight to Kathmandu, travel to the trekking regions can be dangerous and delayed by weather conditions, and treks are often 10+ days making it tough to schedule in while working. Don’t let these factors deter you, just book the trip! Trekking is the main draw (we much preferred the Everest region to Annapurna, more on that below), but the culture in the Kathmandu Valley and in the mountain regions is worth the journey alone. Below, we detail our advice to those thinking of planning a trip and what surprised us about this incredible destination. We also include some fun facts we uncovered during our ~3 weeks in the country.
You will read many opinions online about which region to visit, which season is best, etc. and these factors will 100% determine the experience you have on your trip. We offer our views on these topics and hope you find it useful. If you plan accordingly, you will reap the rewards of this spectacular country.
High-Level Itinerary
Kathmandu and Bhaktapur: 4 Days
Kathmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur Durbar Squares, Monkey Temple, and Buddha Stupa
Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek: 11 Days
Pokhara: 3 Days
Mardi Himal Trek: 3 Days
Surprises
How Much More We Enjoyed the Everest Region Versus the Annapurna Region: This is a hotly debated topic. We were advised by many people to do the Annapurna Base Camp hike instead of Everest and we are very glad that we did not listen to them. The Everest region is so special for multiple reasons - the peaks are unparalleled (you will see multiple 8,000+ meter peaks on the trek), the Buddhist / Tibetan culture is unique, the Sherpas are unlike any people we have ever met, the mountaineering history is inspiring, the high-altitude component of the EBC trek is thrilling, and it’s simply exciting to be near such a storied place. Annapurna is known for having more natural (tropical forests in addition to alpine areas due to lower altitude) and cultural diversity. While this is true, we found ourselves pining for the Everest region during our time on the Mardi Himal trek as the region was much more unique.
BEWARE! Low visibility and flight cancellations due to smog in Pokhara / Annapurna Region during the Spring: Spring is often cited as one of the best times to visit the Annapurna region, however, worsening smokey and smoggy conditions are quickly making this no longer the case. Spring is the end of the dry season in Nepal, which brings with it wildfires. Farmers also burn crops at this time. This is on top of an already horrific pollution problem making air quality and visibility terrible in many regions of Nepal. We found this out the hard way when we arrived at the normally beautiful lakeside of Pewa Lake in the center of Pokhara and were barely able to see the lake. It was almost impossible to believe the snow-clad peaks of the Annapurna range are ever visible from here.
Visibility on hikes is also VERY impaired. We did the Mardi Himal hike and were only able to see mountains for a few hours of the multi-day hike.
We found NO mention of this problem on any travel blogs or anywhere online despite this having been a problem for the last several years
Visibility was so bad that Pokhara airport closed for several days. Our flight was canceled forcing us to hop in a taxi and make the harrowing and long drive back to Kathmandu.
Enjoyed how Busy Everest Base Camp (EBC) Trek is: We have heard horror stories about how busy EBC trek is, therefore, we were concerned that this would ruin the experience. Unexpectedly, we found the buzz additive as we enjoyed being with so many other people from all corners of the globe excited to be part of the same experience. We were also there during summiting season (April and May) which meant that we got to meet a lot of the hopeful climbers. It was hard not to feel inspired after conversations with so many accomplished mountaineers.
Best Burger on Earth is in… Kathmandu?: Michelle fully believes that the best burger she has EVER had is from Smashing Burger in Kathmandu. Michelle regards herself as a preeminent burger expert, so this is quite a feat. It is so delectable that she went daily and even went alone during a blackout and dined solo in the darkness. We commend the chefs at Smashing Burger for crafting a true masterpiece!
How Many People Got Altitude Sick on Everest Base Camp (EBC): We saw a shockingly high number of fellow trekkers develop severe altitude sickness during the journey. Most trekkers who develop symptoms are encouraged to get picked up in a helicopter and taken back to Lukla or Kathmandu… Nothing like a peaceful hike interrupted frequently by the sound of rescue helicopters on the way to pick up other hikers.
How Culturally Rich the Kathmandu Valley is: Some of the most incredible historical sites we have ever seen are in the Kathmandu Valley… and prior to seeing them with our own eyes, we had no idea that they existed. The blend of Hinduism and Buddhism is intriguing and the architecture is unlike anything we have seen to date. The religious sites were also incredibly active with crowds of people praying and performing rituals. We found the Durbar squares in particular to be amazing and were surprised they are not promoted more.
How Underdeveloped the Everest Region is: Despite being one of, if not, the richest regions in Nepal, the level of development in the Everest region is shockingly low (which we acknowledge is a byproduct of the geography). Excluding the tourist infrastructure, some villages felt like they have not changed much since the Middle Ages. Fields are still plowed via yak and people still quote distances in hours / days walk. There are no roads, so the paths are crowded with pack animals and porters carrying wildly heavy loads of everything from animal caucasus (for meat) to bricks. Construction is not mechanized….in fact, nothing really is. It really is just something you have to see to understand.
Lukla Airport is Almost as Invigorating as Everest Itself: Lukla Airport is known as the most dangerous in the world, adding to the feeling of adventure in the Everest region. The runway is on the edge of a cliff making landings challenging. Takeoffs are exhilarating - the plane drives down an incline and then all of a sudden you’re in flight as the runway ceases to exist. Watching landings and takeoffs from Lukla is a spectator sport complete with applause. The airport experience is nerve-wracking, but also a massive highlight.
Food was Much Better on EBC than Expected: Based on what we had read and stories we had heard, we were expecting to eat rice, lentils, and candy bars for the entire hike. This was far from reality. From Lukla to base camp, we were feasting on lo mein, pizza, veggie burgers, Tibetan bread, pasta, and of course dal bhat. We had this hot chocolate and cake in a nice cafe at 4,410 meters!
Note: Despite our normally carnivorous habits, we stuck to a vegetarian diet on the hike and suggest that you do too.
Advice
Helicopter to Lukla: There are a lot of flight cancellations (~50%) between Kathmandu and Lukla which results in many people’s treks getting delayed. Helicopters are able to operate in more weather conditions, so taking a helicopter in to start your trek is a more reliable method to make sure you don’t have to start your trek late. We met a lot of people who had multi-day delays getting into Lukla and had to skip acclimatization days because of this.
Additionally, many flights are routed through Ramechhap instead of Kathmandu. Ramechhap is only 84 km from Kathmandu; however, the drive takes close to six hours as the roads are in terrible shape and the drivers stop for multiple full meals. The journey is also tough on the back… and head (no seat belt and dramatic bumps led to our heads getting banged against the ceiling of the van multiple times).
Just tell your trekking operator that you would like to copter in and they will arrange a shared helicopter for a $300 / person supplement. We promise that it is worth the investment!
Don’t miss Bhaktapur: Bhaktapur is a true cultural gem ~45 minutes drive from Kathmandu. It is an incredibly traditional city and the architecture and historical landmarks are phenomenal. Strolling the streets here will make you think you stepped into a time machine.
Take altitude sickness very seriously: Don’t skip acclimatization days!!
Mardi Himal over Poon Hill Hike: If you are pressed for time, but also want to get in a hike in the Annapurna region, we recommend the Mardi Himal hike over the much more popular Poon Hill trek. Mardi Himal is a bit more challenging, however, the views are drastically better.
Timing, timing, timing: Make sure to visit during months with the best visibility - this is regional so do your homework on the region you intend to go to to ensure the highest chance to get pristine views. We have heard many stories of people making it all the way to EBC only for it to be clouded in.
EBC Season: March through May and October and November
The fall has better visibility but is colder
Annapurna Region: October and November
If taking a helicopter to Everest View Hotel or EBC, take a very early morning flight: Clouds roll into the mountainous regions as the day progresses, so if you are going on a day trip via helicopter to Everest View Hotel or EBC, take the earliest flight out.
This is especially true for Everest View Hotel as it is quite far from Everest. Clouds roll in here pretty early (9-10 am some days… maybe earlier) so GET THERE EARLY or you will miss your shot at getting your glimpse of Everest.
Cross the streets of Kathmandu slowly: When crossing the hectic streets in Nepal’s capital city, you may be tempted to run, but don’t! Cross slowly, cars and motorbikes will stop for you as you make your way across the busy roads.
Fun Facts
Nepal uses many different calendars: the Nepal Sambat, Bikram Samwat, the Gregorian, and in Sherpa regions the Sherpa. Because of this, you will see businesses quoting their established dates in all different years. At first, this left us confused as many business were quoting future years like 2066.
New Years Day for the year 2081 (Bikram Samwat) was being celebrated when we were in Nepal in April 2024.
Many Sherpas are named after the day of the week they were born on + their last name (everyone's last name is Sherpa). If we were Sherpa, we would be named Mingma (Tuesday) Sherpa.
Nepal was a monarchy until 2008. There are still protests in support of restoring the monarchy.
From parts of the Everest Base Camp trail, Tibet is a mere 9-10 hour walk.
Sherpa Kami Rita submitted Everest for the 30th time this season.
It takes most trekkers ~2 months total to summit. The time is needed for acclimatization days spent climbing practice peaks and resting at the various camps on the mountain.
Sherpas have many physical adaptations that enable them to live in low-pressure, high-altitude regions. If only they knew how challenging these environments are on the rest of us!
During the 2024 climbing season, Purima Shrestha, a female Nepalese mountaineer and photojournalist, made history by being the first person to summit Everest THREE times in one season. With the summiting season a mere two weeks, this is quite a feat!
The most dangerous mountain to summit is Annapurna I (located in Nepal).
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